None of your sketches show any narrowing of the handle or the blade where it transitions to the handle. This "neck" area needs to narrow for an ergonomic grip. See how the Global knives narrow in the transition. This sort of shape lets the user pinch the blade with the thumb and forefinger and wrap the middle finger in the narrow area, for total control over the blade.
(Whereas the instructor explains several grips, the grip where the blade is pinched between the thumb and curled forefinger is, in my opinion, the one that gives the best control. Most videos on YouTube explaining how to grip a knife show this method.)
I would suggest a couple of changes besides introducing a neck zone: The back of the blade can be uncomfortable on the hand in the pinched grip. Round the back of the spine of the blade, especially around the transition area. Secondly, I highly recommend having the blade only beveled on one side of the blade; for right handers, the blade is best when beveled only on the right side (when gripped for use, tip pointing away, edge down), because this leaves the side in contact with the food without a bevel forcing the edge out.. The benefit of this is most clearly seen when trying to make thin slices of hard foods, such as potatoes, daikon, carrots, squash, etc. On blades that are ground on both sides (double-beveled), at the actual point of cutting, the inside grind pushes the blade outward, causing it to slice little wedges rather than perfectly uniform slices. This problem goes away if the inside surface is vertical and unbeveled.
See this single-beveled blade for reference.
In most Japanese knives that are beveled only on the outside, the inner, unbeveled side will also be slightly concave, to keep it from sticking to the thing that is being cut. The concavity creates an air space between the blade and the material being cut.