Just came across this link recently
The Crispin Colloquy
a web based forum of boot and shoemaking topics.
Looks pretty interesting, with lots of knowledge and info about hand made footwear techniques, tools, etc. I haven’t had the time to fully explore (i’ll probably look it through for a few hours tomorrow), but looks like a good source for info on the more artisan side of footwear design and production.
Just checking into a few topics randomly, I actually feel kinda embarassed on how little I know about actual old-school shoemaking.
A sample post about insole and inseaming-
I use an American Channel knife and a welt knife to cut the feather (or outside channel). You could, in a pinch, use a Sutton groover and a French edger or skirt knife.
I use a Sutton Groover or an old, modified Osbourne race to cut the inside channel. You could even use a swivel knife, once you’ve scribe the distance, in lieu of the race. But with a race you can control the depth of the cut. A race usually is set up to cut a groove…I modified mine to just cut a straight down “slit.”
How wide you make your feather and how far in you cut your inside channel determines how wide the holdfast ends up being.
I have to admit I dont have any clue what they are talking about, but am really interested to learn!