what's in an experienced designer's portfolio? School me??

i guess my real question is how much is appropriate to show with a portfolio website? if it is all finished products, and some methodology, but without much process work (recently had a good portion of my work lost to a computer hard drive failure), especially in the niche of footwear design, i wonder if not having the things like mockups, sketches, & other process stuff that is would look like too much of an omission even for a website?

also given that i have lost so much of my previous work and have been out of work for almost 2 years now, i know i will need to do some current/new personal projects to show process but i worry that putting theoretical products/projects in a portfolio at this level would be kind of looked at as filler?