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Re: Help please! (from anyone running a ZCorp Z310)

Postby adamflyer » September 11th, 2015, 10:43 am


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Probably a printhead. I just got the same error. Does anyone have any experience with how long the heads are supposed to last in terms of printed volume? I'm hoping it was the mystery print head cleaner and alcohol solution I had previously ran through it and not the new solution recipe. Replacing the print head did the trick for me. I noticed you can sometimes get color HP10 print heads a lot cheaper off of places like ebay. I wonder if you can just replace the chip with one from a used black cartridge? I ordered a set for cheap, hoping it works. Does anyone know if there are any aftermarket re-settable chips for this print head?

There is a doc called "ZPrinterĀ®310 Troubleshooting Guide" that explains the error codes. Google that and you can find a download of the pdf.

What is the recipe for the sawdust? And why that material?

I just bought some Ultracal 30 yesterday. I'll be giving it a try maybe this weekend. Hydroperm is working ok except for taking forever to cure when printed but I can't find a place locally that stocks it and shipping costs more than the product itself.

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Scott Bennett
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The book suggests that error code is either the pogo card or ribbon cable. I have a new print head on the way, I'll try that first, then a ribbon cable (only $140! :x ).

The material is sawdust and a couple water-activated binders (still playing with the mix). I actually went to the grocery store and grabbed a bunch of stuff that seemed like it would solidify with water. Tapioca, soy flour, sugar, wheat gluten, etc. Powdered UF glue would probably work great, but I don't want the formaldehyde.

I'm planning to use this for producing home goods (tabletop accessories, maybe furniture components), hence the material experimentation. It's also a good story, using a waste product, etc. Looks promising so far, the parts are nice and spongy in their green state and soak up the resin readily. Pretty good surface finish, and quite strong after curing.


adamflyer
 
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I was thinking of trying UF glue also but the formaldehyde scared me away too. I tried Ultracal30 and so far I can't really tell the difference from Hydroperm.

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Scott Bennett
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Despite what the troubleshooting guide says, looks like my error was indeed a print head. What are the plans for when they go obsolete? Seems like the reliability of the old stock is pretty poor already.


adamflyer
 
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3D Systems still sells the heads. But when they quit and all the old stock runs out from places like fleebay I assume its the end of the line for the printer. If and when that day comes and I still have a use for the printer I might just hack the frame with another print head and throw an arduino in it to control it. It looks like there is some progress on open source software http://pwdr.github.io/ http://www.instructables.com/id/Plan-B- ... et-3D-pri/

I have been printing more molds with Ultracal30. Seems to be doing ok although brittle and not so strong and not a very clean perimeters. After realizing that plaster chemically sets using water instead of drying I quit putting my parts in the oven. I think it was doing more harm than good.

The magic ingredient the purpose sold 3D powder has seems to be PVA as far as I can tell but I have heard conflicting information if this is polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl acetate.

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Scott Bennett
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adamflyer wrote:The magic ingredient the purpose sold 3D powder has seems to be PVA as far as I can tell but I have heard conflicting information if this is polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl acetate.


Polyvinyl acetate is not water soluble, it's most likely polyvinyl alcohol, which is.

My print head reject rate is pretty shocking. Seems like the older ones work better than newer ones. I just had a newish one (from 2010) crap out during its initial purge. Maybe I need to spend a day cruising thrift stores and hope for a big score, these are way too expensive to throw away without being able to use them even once.


adamflyer
 
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I have been through 3 so far and I'm not very happy about it. I got a color print head (sometimes be found much cheaper) and was hoping that swapping out the chip that is glued with one from a black printhead would work but it did not - the machine threw an error code.

The last two heads I installed I canceled the purging. I figure it is just using up life of the printhead. The only drawback is it prints black and eventually fades out. I don't really care about the color though.

I just finished printing out a mold for a cylinder head. Hoping to pour the casting this week.

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Scott Bennett
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Cool, post some pics. I would love to try some casting. Ran a sawdust print today to test out a new adhesive, looks promising.

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Scott Bennett
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Getting there. Left this in the bed overnight and a lot of binder bled into the surrounding powder. Had to depowder it with a 100psi air gun, but the part mostly held together. I think less saturation and pulling it out right away then baking will be better. Apparently you can retrofit the heater to the 310, so that might be worth doing. The green strength of these parts is remarkably good.

Image

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Scott Bennett
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Gave it a try, but straight Ultracal is totally useless. Even with the saturation maxed out, it just comes out like crumbly powder. Definitely needs something added.


Jason_McMullan
 
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Looking at other USG products, I'm thinking about running some USG DryStone in my Z310+ - it requires less water than HydroPerm or UltraCal 30 to set.

Plaster.com has it in 7lb buckets, if I can't find a local supplier.

As for the HP10 heads - I was getting similar burn-out issues; turns out it I had two issues - a clogged binder line, and 'flocking' in the cartridge.

Flocking of Pigment based Ink

Disassembling some 'dead' HP10 printheads, I was surprised to find that the fine mesh filter over the inkjets was clogged with a black sludge.

Turns out that the sake I was using chemically combined with the pigments in the black ink, and the pigment particles flocked into large particles. These particles clogged the mesh filter, and the printhead nozzles themselves.

Pre-flushing the printhead with a dye-based ink resolved this issue for me.

Clogged Binder Line

The snap-fit binder line connector on the back of the fast axis has a one-way valve that degraded over time, and wouldn't let binder flow to the head at more that a slow dribble.

You can determine if you have this problem if 'pushing' binder into the septum using the purge kit syringe is much easier that 'pulling' binder via the syringe.

I replaced that connector, and my heads no longer burn out, and I get much better saturation.

Dye-based Ink Purge Procedure

I keep a supply of 'bulk refill' dye-based yellow HP10 ink ($20 from ebay for 250ml) on hand to do purges with. My purge process is:

* Select 'install new head' via the 'N' command from the console - and NOT via the Z-Print application
* Remove old head
* Push 30ml of yellow ink into the septum with the purge kit, filling the binder lines
* Install new print head
* Press 'ONLINE'
* Print a 50x50x50mm solid cube
- This is usually enough to 'purge out' the pigment based black ink, and flow in the dye based yellow

After that, I can reliably print in sake.

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Scott Bennett
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That's great info about the pigment. I replaced (or maybe removed) that one way valve when I was setting up the machine- it was totally blocked.


Artem_Machacha
 
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Hi, everybody! I'm using zprinter 650, is there anyway to decrease vacuum time during printing? It stops for about 10minutes I guess and models start to separate, I think 2-3 minutes will be enough, could anybody help here please?


cadjunkie
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The vaccum isn't supposed to run the entire time. If you are seeing delamination on the models there are a few reasons or items to check for...

That you powder settings are correct. (i.e. correct powder/binder type).
Make sure your cleaning station is actually allowing for your cleaning solution to shoot out correctly.
Check your printhead life... generally don't go past 1000ml on clear and 5ooml on colors.
Check to make sure your heater is working correctly to create a consistent environment.
Check your snowplows, if they are grooved this can cause powder to not spread correctly.
Binder expiration... there are times that if the binder is close to expiring then you might want to clear that out.

These are just a few items off the top of my head. If nothing else call your service provider to have them come take a look.


adamflyer
 
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I have given up on my 310 for now. Has anyone found any good recipes or fair price on consumables? Here are some pics of 3D printed molds used for aluminum casting. Some of the pics are from using traditional sand molds too.

https://www.facebook.com/goldenfabllc/p ... =3&theater

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