Show your designs!

very nice, I love the chamfer on the bottom of the seat.

Thanks Yo.

A chair model I made for a class project junior year.

I designed this laptop table a couple of years ago, if only I could afford to make the mould!

http://www.designfreeze.co.uk

So lately I have been working on this piece for my home.
She is a monster of a sideboard 2700mm long.
It’s a design I have been sitting on for a while and only summed up the courage to make it fairly recently.
All hand made of Tasmanian Oak with American Walnut details. I’m really happy with the result!
I’ve just completed a smaller 1800mm version for someone as well.

Thanks again
Max


Thats a nice piece! Normally Im not a fan of oak, but that looks very nice. What is the finish on it? oil/wax? I really like the fit/finish of the foot as well. I imagine working with that large of a top sheet added some challenges. Did you consider miter-folds rather than butt joints?

@theha that is a beauty!

Thanks guys

The finish is a satin poly.
The sizing did make it difficult but it ment I had to get a hand when putting it together.
Mitre joints were considered but I’m not entirely sure why I chose butt joints I think because I made the top slightly thicker
Than the sides

Thanks again
Max

Max … drool … that’s gorgeous … drool … could you grace us with some more … drool … detail shots?

Loving the floor as well. Painted concrete? Cork?

Thanks Lmo

Here are a few more details.
Also my floor is epoxy on concrete. Like polished concrete with out the final cut back.

Thanks again. I’ve just finished a dining table I’ll put it up when I get some good shots



theha your dovetails are superb. Excellent work.

The finger pull is walnut? If so, splendid job on the thin wall cylinder.

Any particular reason the sides are not on top of the bottom? It seems the load transfer would not be ideal the way you have it. On the other hand, it makes the design more intriguing as shown by my question.

And for a mundane question, what did you use for runners on the door slides?

Thanks iab for the interest.
Finger pull is walnut lathed and drilled out. I really wanted to place them in from the rear of the sliding door so give a inlay appearance but decided on this way in the end.

The sides being the way they are is fairly standard practice for me anyway.

the slides are in coloured flexible poly tracks and the actual runners are adjustable inserts. Makes a very smooth free moving door.

Smoking hot details. Love the walnut drawer pulls.

Love this detail on the dove tails. Really beautifully crafted!
Screen Shot 2012-11-17 at 11.04.45 AM.png

Recent coffee table I designed:
Walnut / Clear glass

Maple / Smoked glass

The bolt in the center holds the piece together, and steel dowels act as spacers.

I designed it to be as minimal in parts and waste as possible. And it’s totally collapsible, even if you live in a small apartment like me. :smiley:

I still haven’t really figured out how to strengthen the joinery yet. I’ve only tested it to about 170lbs, and generally furniture of this type should hold 200lbs easily. I think a simple powder coated sheet metal bracket could complement the design, but I’m still working out the best way to strengthen it, without making the simple functional design more complicated.

very nice!

@rsusuki, it is a beautiful & mature design.

Since the design looks So complete. It’s difficult to add or modify something to attend the joinery requirement.
I will settle for 170lbs…if it is OK.

Some options…

  1. Add a metal sheet as a stopper.
  2. Go for the square hole (or non circular shape) and sq. rods attaching them.

Here are few quick googles…
Square Hole Broach
Mortise Chisle
table1.jpg
3677366328_a83213f356.jpg

Try tighter tolerance in the joint, should help some. Should be a pretty firm press fit, it looks like I can see a gap in your photo.

This is a bench I have completed for my front entrance. Plywood,Walnut veneer, Black Leatherette

Here is a three week project I just finished.